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Gardening CalendarThe jury is still out as to how much permanent damage last year's drought took on our plants. Many gardeners have reported fewer blooms on their camellias this fall and winter, and the same could hold true for many spring blooming plants which set their flower buds last August and September in the brunt of the miserable growing season. Others report some dead branches, or worry that trees have died. Plant damage may have occurred due to summer woes, winter weather or wind damage. When broken branches occur, try to clean them up as quickly as possible. If it is burned or brown foliage, leave it intact until spring growth truly begins. The damaged plants may not look the most attractive, but they can shield the plant from further damage. Also, sometimes the burned leaves are all that they are, and the new leaf bud behind them is ready to replace them when new growth begins. It is still too soon to know what is living and what is not. If it is just a few less flowers this spring, that will be ok. Monitor your plants as they spring back to life and allow spring blooming plants a chance to bloom before pruning. Remember, March is often when late freezes can spring back in and zing new growth. Have protection at hand and pay attention to the forecasts. If you did not prune your summer blooming plants such as buddleia, crape myrtle and roses yet, get to it. Crape myrtles in particular don't need annual pruning, but if yours need to be pruned, get it done before spring growth kicks in. Crapes are one of the last plants to break dormancy, but remember that plants that bloom on the new growth need to be pruned before that new growth is too far along. Late pruning is not going to hurt the plants, but it can delay the onset of the first flowers. "Gardening with a Purpose" is considered the #1 gardening trend for 2011. Whether that purpose is filling your kitchen with fresh produce from a home garden, giving you fresh herbs to use in the kitchen or cutting down on your water bills with water-wise gardening practices, there are numerous ways you can join the movement. Edible gardening continues to be a hugely popular. Herbs and vegetable plants are popping up in containers, planted alongside flowers and shrubs and in stand-alone gardens. March is a big vegetable gardening month. Plant the cool season broccoli, cabbage, onions, carrots, greens, lettuce, radishes and spinach, and by late month start planting pole beans. If you are new to gardening, don't plant an acre—start small and build on your successes. Your local county extension office has a wealth of information on vegetable gardening. Our goal in extension is to help you be successful. Too many would be gardeners jump in uninformed and then get disappointed when their garden dies. All too often I hear "I don't have a green thumb, everything I plant dies." Knowing when to plant, and what plants need to grow can change that refrain. Gardening is not difficult, it just takes a little time. If you have dry, rocky soil consider some of the Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary, thyme and lavender. They thrive on neglect and do better without too much water. Cilantro and parsley could still be planted for an early harvest, but cilantro will bolt and go to seed as soon as hot weather arrives. Spring bulbs are up and some early varieties may have already completed their bloom cycle. From early crocus through tulips we have at least three months of showy flowers in the garden. These harbingers of spring are a welcome sight each year. Fertilize the bulbs when you see flower buds beginning. For those that have already finished, give them a shot of fertilizer as well. The six week growth cycle following bloom is when they set their flowers for next spring. Make sure they aren't too crowded, and that they get plenty of sunlight during this critical period. If they are in a shady or crowded location, consider moving them as soon after flowering as possible. Divide them and plant them in a sunny location and leave the foliage intact. Let the leaves die down naturally and you should have blooming bulbs by next spring. Pansies, violas and dianthus are rebounding as well. These cool season winter annuals can last into early summer provided they get ample fertilization. Deadhead any spent blooms and fertilize now and they should give you loads of color before it is time to plant summer annuals. Speaking of summer annuals, we always have some warm weather in March and sometimes it makes gardeners do rash things—like plant tomatoes or impatiens! Don't jump the gun on heat loving plants, wait until at least mid April. If your garden is bereft of color, consider planting calibrachoa, petunias, diascia or geraniums now. These plants thrive in cooler weather and can make it in the summer months with proper care. Larkspur, bachelor buttons and cornflowers are beginning to add to the seasonal display too. These annuals are planted in the fall for an early burst of color. Don't even think about sunning your houseplants on a warm day! Any tropical plants that are going to be moved outside this season should go out in late April to early May. Moving them in and out to give them a bit of sun is hard on your back and the plant. By now they are accustomed to the indoor conditions, and longer days are beginning to encourage them to start growing. Moving them in and out is a shock to their system and can cause damage. Just be patient. Many lawns look like a field of wildflowers about now. Those "wildflowers" are winter weeds. Allowing them to bloom may be pretty but it also leads to seed set which will increase the problem next spring. It is getting a little late to start a spray schedule, but keeping them mowed can prevent seed set. Don't fertilize until the lawn is totally green, which usually doesn't happen until mid to late April.
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